A photographic tribute to ‘90s music, style and culture | Huck
Huck
Photography

A photographic tribute to ‘90s music, style and culture

Legendary photography duo Guzman look back on the decade that launched their career.

Long before photography duos were commonplace, husband and wife Russell Peacock and Constance Hansen introduced Guzman to the world. “We started collaborating in the mid-’80s and at first, it was just playing around, making pictures of nightlife personalities in our Fifth Avenue photo studio,” Hansen says.

In 1988, they moved to a 3,000-square-foot studio on West 31st Street in Manhattan just as Guzman became a force in their own right. They hit the global stage with the album cover for Janet Jackson’s Rhythm Nation 1814 and never looked back. Fusing classic large-format photography with a quirky sensibility that gave them a distinctive edge, Guzman soon secured A-list partnerships at a time when photographers were treated like stars.

Debi Mazar

Their groundbreaking 1996 ad campaign featuring Grandmaster Flash self-styled in his own clothes and carrying a monogrammed LV record case designed by Helmut Lang came at the height of their career. “We flew on the Concorde from New York to Paris to have a meeting at Louis Vuitton in the afternoon and then came right back,” Hansen remembers. “We weren’t even shooting there, we were shooting in the States.”

“Budgets were different then,” Hansen recalls of the times when ad agencies, record labels, and magazines had deep pockets. Guzman received many notable commissions which brought their signature style to the mainstream, crafting mesmerising portraits that were often crafted on whirlwind shoots.

When Details magazine brought Guzman on to photograph Soundgarden for a feature story, Hansen and Peacock caught the Seattle band completely off guard. Envisioning a modern take on the famed 1975 video of the Rolling Stones performing on a flatbed truck rolling down Fifth Avenue in 1975, the photographers rented a rowboat and hooked it up to the back of the car.

“We wanted the band to get in [the boat] and drive them around 42nd Street, but they didn’t go for it,” Hansen recalls. “Instead, we took a few shots of them around the car outside our studio.”

SWV, Release Some Tension, 1997

Soundgarden, Details magazine, 1994

Then the photographers pulled out one more surprise. “We told them, ‘We have these chainsaws…’ in our studio and they went crazy!” Hansen says, remembering the turning point for the shoot. “They got really into it and then they said, ‘Okay, let’s do the boat!’ But by then, it had gotten too dark and it was too late. We told them, ‘Sorry, that needed to be done in the light.’”

Back before surprise midnight drops, artists had a proper album rollout that lasted weeks if not months – and Guzman’s photography played a big role in helping to shape the zeitgeist by telegraphing their image and vision to the world.              

“When an album came out, it seemed like everybody was listening to it,” Peacock says. “They were given their moment and in all the magazines. Maybe at the time, they didn’t realise how big this was but they were everywhere and it felt like everybody was on the same page culturally.” 

Lady Miss Kier, 1996

Method Man, Vibe magazine, 1997

Melvin and Mario Van Peebles, Rolling Stone, 1993

k.d. lang, Out magazine, 1996

Total, “Total,” 1996

Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.


You might like

© Darren Vargas

The lasting community legacy of a legendary Californian boxing gym

Moretón — Since opening in the ’80s, the Coachella Valley Boxing Club has trained multiple world champions, while providing a vital hub for local youth. In his new photobook, Darren Vargas documents its tight-knit, Chicano-led community, while also weaving a deeply personal story.

  • Sport
  • Jack Dennison-Thompson
© Melissa Auf der Maur

Inside the grunge golden age with Hole’s former bassist

My ’90s Rock Photographs — Melissa Auf der Maur’s new photobook is a sprawling visual memoir of her time at the heart of the US scene, from Tinker to The Smashing Pumpkins.

  • Music
  • Miss Rosen

Introducing ‘The Chaos Isles’, a new photozine by Huck and Yushy

Normal Island — From unlicensed raves to the solstice at Stonehenge, furries to giant vegetable growers, Yushy is one of the UK’s best lensmen of its wild side. ‘The Chaos Isles’ will be sent out exclusively to Club Huck+ members.

  • Culture
  • Isaac Muk

Join Club Huck+ to get the most from Huck

Dispatches from the sharp edge of culture — Members get our print magazine, special photozines, The Huck Long Read newsletter, discounts from our friends and partners, digital versions of back issues and priority access to events.

  • Club Huck
  • Huck

Signs of solidarity as London marks three years of genocide in Palestine

Never forget — 250,000 people gathered on Saturday as Israeli attacks have continued in Gaza and the West Bank. Daisy Schofield photographed the diverse people and placards in attendance.

  • Activism
  • Daisy Schofield

Landmark new exhibition is celebrating 50 years of female punk

God Save the Queens — The Museum of Youth Culture is bringing together rare photography, archive material and a one-night-only supergroup featuring members of X-Ray Spex, The Slits and The Raincoats.

  • Culture
  • Ella Glossop
You've read articles this month Thanks for reading

Join Club Huck — it's free!

Valued Huck reader, thank you for engaging with our journalism and taking an interest in our dispatches from the sharp edge of culture, sport, music and rebellion.

We want to offer you the chance to join Club Huck [it's free!] where you will receive exclusive newsletters, including personal takes on the state of pop culture and media from columnist Emma Garland, culture recommendations, interviews and dispatches straight to your inbox.

You'll also get priority access to Huck events, merch discounts, and more fun surprises.

Already part of the club? Enter your email above and we'll get you logged in.