Upper Mustang, a hidden region on the cusp of change
- Text by Huck
- Photography by Will Elsom
Mustang is an isolated region in the Nepalese Himalayas, located at the head of the deepest river gorge in the world. While situated within the boarders of Nepal, it’s culturally and ethnically Tibetan: the majority of the population still speak traditional Tibetic languages.
Up until 1992, Upper Mustang – the area that comprises the northern two-thirds of the district – remained a restricted demilitarised zone. Foreigners were not allowed to enter, making it one of the most preserved regions in the world. However, things are slowly beginning to change.
Photographer Will Elsom first set eyes on the region during a trek through Nepal when he visited the small town of Kagbeni, which serves as the entry point to Upper Mustang. Though his trip was taking him in a different direction, he knew – gazing up at the valley from a windy precipice – that he would have to return. Years later, camera-in-hand, he did.
“Mustang feels incomparably vast and beautifully remote,” he says, recalling his time there. “There is an almost constant wind that tears through this valley, an intense reminder that you are part of a planet that has ceaseless weather systems that shape this skeletal landscape and expose the vulnerability of life.”
“Travelling around there is like travelling back in time. There is little vegetation to hide the lines of ancient sediment that paint the hillsides, tracing the history of the land back millions of years – to when the Tethys ocean drained from the Tibetan plains.”
Elsom’s photos, taken during his journey through Upper Mustang, depict a region on the cusp of change. Mustang’s people – the Loba – are dedicated to preserving their culture, but the spectre of globalisation is a growing threat. A road suitable for commercial vehicles connecting India and China is due to be completed, while the embracing of Chinese products – namely food and beer – presents the issue of plastic pollution.
In that sense, Mustang faces a number of challenges. But Elsom (whose photos appear in a zine, titled Upper Mustang, detailing his journey) is hopeful that its cultural identity will remain intact. The Loba, he explains, will continue to carry it with them.
“They have an intrinsic connection with Mustang,” he says. “One that is filled with stories, myths, and a history – which they hold close by their side.”
See more of Will Elsom’s work on his official website.
Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.
You might like
On the set of ‘La Bamba’, lost Latino legend Ritchie Valens’s biopic
The overnight rockstar — The Chicano rock & roll star exploded overnight in the late ’50s, but just as quickly he was gone, killed in a plane crash along with Buddy Holly. An ’80s biopic saw him immortalised on the big screen, which photographer Merrick Morton captured behind the scenes.
Written by: Miss Rosen
Louis Theroux’s ‘Manosphere’ shows men aren’t the problem, platforms are
No Ws for Good Men — The journalist’s new documentary sees him dive headfirst into the toxicities and machinations of the male influencer economy. But when young creators are monetarily incentivised to make more and more outrageous content, who really is to blame?
Written by: Emma Garland
In the 1960s, African photographers recaptured their own image
Ideas of Africa — An exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art explores the 20th century’s most important lensers, including Seydou Keïta, Malick Sidibé and Kwame Brathwaite, and their impact on challenging dominant European narratives.
Written by: Miss Rosen
Reynaldo Rivera’s intimate portrait of queer Latino love
Propiedad Privada — Growing up during the AIDS pandemic, the photographer entered a world where his love was not only taboo, but dangerous. His new monograph presents inward-looking shots made over four decades, which reclaim the power of desire.
Written by: Miss Rosen
In photos: The newsagents keeping print alive
Save the stands — With Huck 83 hitting shelves around the world, we met a few people who continue to stock print magazines, defying an enduringly tough climate for physical media and the high street.
Written by: Ella Glossop
Inside Bombay Beach, California’s ‘Rotting Riviera’
Man-made decay — The Salton Sea was created by accident after a failed attempt to divert the Colorado River in the early 20th century. Jack Burke reports from its post-apocalyptic shores, where DIY art and ecological collapse meet.
Written by: Jack Burke
