Meet the trans-led hairdressers providing London with gender-affirming trims

Nestled in the heart of Hoxton, east London, Open Out is a queer-friendly, trans-led hair salon that’s redefining what it means to get a haircut. Co-founded by Greygory Vass, a hairdresser with over 25 years experience, the salon first began as a pop-up in 2011 with the goal of breaking down the traditional gender binaries of barbershops and hairdressers. 14 years later, it has grown to a team of 10, offering a range of hair styling services, including house visits. Inclusivity is central to their ethos, prioritising accessibility with step-free entry and what’s said to be the best accessible toilet in London.

The shop, with its ruby red colour scheme and plush retro barber chairs, offers more than just a trim. They provide clients with gender-affirming haircuts, which empower them to align their outward appearances with their inner identities. For many – especially trans and non-binary folk – getting a haircut that reflects who they are isn’t just cosmetic, it’s a powerful act of self recognition. So whether it’s a fresh fade, a bold buzz, or a meticulous beard reshape, Open Out’s work challenges the conventional salon experience.

Having a space like this has become even more vital following the recent Supreme Court ruling, which decided that the term ‘woman’ in the Equality Act 2010 refers specifically to ‘biological sex’. It could have a major impact on the lives of trans folk, and particularly trans women, as it effectively excludes them from women-only spaces such as changing rooms, toilets, and certain hospital wards. While Greygory and others at Open Out are working hard to support efforts towards challenging and overturning the ruling, their immediate focus is on continuing to create an empowering, non-judgmental space.

We caught up with Greygory to chat about the salon, the ruling, and the affirmative power of a mini-mullet.

• Read next: How trans rights activism and sex workers’ solidarity emerged in the ’70s and ’80s

What inspired the creation of Open Out, and how would you describe the salon’s ethos?

Open Out is based on personal experiences of not being able to access gender-affirming hair services ourselves. My own personal journey is one of trying to get my haircut in barbers and being denied services, and finding that hair salons weren’t able to or wouldn’t cut my hair according to my wishes. Falling between the gap of gendered services, I started to cut my own hair, and started providing gender-affirming haircuts for myself. When I realised that I was transgender and started finding my community, I discovered how common this experience is for our community, and for many others who don’t feel comfortable or seen in mainstream hair spaces. Demand is always through the roof and always has been since day one!

Many people describe going to the salon as a form of therapy. Do you find that this is especially true for your clients at Open Out?

It’s easy to underestimate how therapeutic it is just to be present in a safer space, where your identity is seen and understood, and doesn't have to be justified. I think it’s a huge relief for all the staff and clients to know that we don’t have to hide who we are, and what our basic needs are. Many of us are used to masking and it can take time to build trust with one another, but regardless of how much we share with each other, sometimes sitting in comfortable silence is all someone needs in that moment. A haircut can be symbolic – like cutting away the troubles and feeling renewed – so there are many layers to the therapeutic experience that we never want to take for granted.

What does a ‘safe space’ mean in practice at Open Out? How do you create and maintain that?

We tend to say ‘safer’ space rather than ‘safe’ space as we are always learning what it means for someone to be safe, and we don’t want to get complacent on what that requires for different people. This is key to creating and maintaining a safer space, being aware that there’s no ‘one size fits all’. Being prepared to change your behaviour, not being defensive, recognising that you don’t automatically have all the answers, and properly listening to people. These are the key ingredients for what makes a space safer. That goes for how to address safety within yourself or caretaking a space on behalf of others. 

• Read next: Joy and rage at Trans Pride London – in photos

How do you see hair playing a role in your clients’ self-expression and sense of self? Have you seen any transformations – literal or emotional – that really stuck with you?

I think arriving at a comfortable place with your hair can be complex because there are so many social pressures to navigate, which are often in conflict with how people actually feel about themselves. Hair is aesthetic, sensory, cultural, and literally a part of our bodies. It’s not so simple as making free choices. Some of us have to also think about being safe, being respected and taken seriously in our jobs, and being seen by our community – all balanced with feeling good about ourselves. Hair is something we can change about ourselves more rapidly, compared to the several-years-long wait lists for trans healthcare, so our role here as hair stylists is very important for people at early stages in their transition. Supporting people to get closer to a sense of themselves is a very rewarding, sometimes emotional and usually a very exciting journey that I always feel privileged to be on with people.

One particular transformation that I will never forget is providing a Palestinian, trans asylum seeker with their first haircut since they fled Gaza. I felt very touched to be the person who could provide a long overdue, gender-affirming haircut after months of it getting longer and him feeling very dysphoric. I just don't really have the words for that experience, even now. He was happy and he cried – it was very humbling, and of course I paid for the haircut myself as one of the very few things in my power to offer.

How did you and the staff at Open Out feel when learning of the recent Supreme Court ruling?

I can’t speak for all the staff but we are certainly shaken by it. I personally feel motivated to keep doing what we do. The importance of our space has just magnified and many clients have told me they are so grateful for our space. Hair can be such a powerful part of personal identity – especially for queer and trans people, so we are focused on remaining sustainable and leading by example and providing consistency and security for our community. Many of our clients are involved in various initiatives for the trans community and mutual support goes on all the time. We will just carry on, and continue caring.

• Read next: What it's really like to access gender affirming healthcare as a young trans woman

How do you think this decision will affect trans people more broadly, and have you already seen it reflected in the moods or conversations with your clients?

This “clarification”, if we can call it that, is very harmful to the mental wellbeing of all trans people, especially trans women and non binary people, as it forces people into a form of house arrest if they feel they can’t meet such a basic need as going to the toilet when not at home. Anxiety is highly prevalent among trans communities and the hyper vigilance and gender policing this ruling encourages across society is extremely detrimental. It’s not only trans people who will continue to suffer but also women perceived to have masculine features and anyone who doesn’t fit a narrow stereotype of binary gender. However, I am meeting a lot of people who see it for what it is, a ruling based on the prejudiced influence of a small but wealthy minority and there are many allies speaking out as feminists with the message ‘not in my name’. I hope there is a way to overturn this unworkable ruling, especially seeing as literally no one will be made safer from it.

What gives you hope right now? What keeps you going despite everything?

My community. I’m blessed to work in a place where I meet so many different kinds of people, all ages, all interests, all backgrounds. We have so many brilliant minds and talents in our community, such articulate and creative people, and such kind and caring people. I will do all I can to nurture this space in the hope of better days ahead for us all. 

For more information and to book an appointment, Visit Open Out’s website here.

Hannah Bentley is a freelance journalist. Follow her on Instagram.

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