The Travel Diary: Discovering Dubai's hidden beauty
- Text by Sebastian Gansrigler
- Photography by Sebastian Gansrigler
Selfie obsessed tourists dance in front of Burj Khalifa, camel traders ride through hot sand storms, oil thieves stalk lifelessly through the shopping palaces. The Sheikhs bask in their power. Burkas move elegantly in the desert wind.
Dubai is the ultimate playground of excess, a land of the endless riches, greed and gluttony. Artificial, but not artistic, and built out of nothing. A construct of a luxurious sand metropolis, Dubai is almost a mistake of nature, excessive material fatigue, a contrasting fascination.
Its modernisation in the second half of the 20th century has helped Dubai to position itself as one of the fastest growing cities in the world. It is said that up to 20% of the cranes in the world were once in the city. Today she has 2.7 million inhabitants, and Dubai has no shame in its ambition, its obsession even, with creating the largest and most luxurious artificial structures on earth.
In 1990 there was only one skyscraper in Dubai, now there are over 400. The Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world, with 163 floors standing proud at 828 metres. Measuring up at 1.1 million square metres, the Dubai Mall is the largest shopping centre in the world. The Dubai Metro is the longest automated metro network in the world. At the same time, Dubai is one of the safest places – the crime rate is virtually zero in the entire city.
A slightly other-worldly place, the city looks like a sci-fi movie, often empty, too clean and isolated. But in spite of all the absurdity, somewhere between innumerable sand dunes and monuments, one can find kind, intimate moments and rare scenes of humanity.
You might like
Louis Theroux’s ‘Manosphere’ shows men aren’t the problem, platforms are
No Ws for Good Men — The journalist’s new documentary sees him dive headfirst into the toxicities and machinations of the male influencer economy. But when young creators are monetarily incentivised to make more and more outrageous content, who really is to blame?
Written by: Emma Garland
In the 1960s, African photographers recaptured their own image
Ideas of Africa — An exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art explores the 20th century’s most important lensers, including Seydou Keïta, Malick Sidibé and Kwame Brathwaite, and their impact on challenging dominant European narratives.
Written by: Miss Rosen
Reynaldo Rivera’s intimate portrait of queer Latino love
Propiedad Privada — Growing up during the AIDS pandemic, the photographer entered a world where his love was not only taboo, but dangerous. His new monograph presents inward-looking shots made over four decades, which reclaim the power of desire.
Written by: Miss Rosen
In photos: The newsagents keeping print alive
Save the stands — With Huck 83 hitting shelves around the world, we met a few people who continue to stock print magazines, defying an enduringly tough climate for physical media and the high street.
Written by: Ella Glossop
Inside Bombay Beach, California’s ‘Rotting Riviera’
Man-made decay — The Salton Sea was created by accident after a failed attempt to divert the Colorado River in the early 20th century. Jack Burke reports from its post-apocalyptic shores, where DIY art and ecological collapse meet.
Written by: Jack Burke
The quiet, introspective delight of Finland’s car cruising scene
Pilluralli — In the country’s small towns and rural areas, young people meet up to drive and hang out with their friends. Jussi Puikkonen spent five years photographing its idiosyncratic pace.
Written by: Josh Jones