
Riding giants: the behemothic art of big-wave surfing
Nazaré diaries — At the start of the year, writer and former pro surfer Jamie Brisick visited the world’s premier big-wave contest. What he discovered was an event of biblical proportions: a place where daredevil disciples put their lives in the hands of an ocean at its most majestically unpredictable.
Written by: Jamie Brisick