The Travel Diary: Exploring the brutalist backstreets of Split
Based on the cost of Adriatic sea, Split is known for its rich history and unique mix of architecture.
‘Split 3’ is a residential district on the south-east side of the city, filled with a distinct complex of buildings. They were built during the ’70s and ’80s, back when Croatia was still part of Yugoslavia – a sprawling communist state that doesn’t exist anymore.
Although I’m currently based in Zagreb, where I’ve lived for 18 years working as a photographer and developer, I’ve been holidaying in Split for the last half a decade. When I first came, I stayed in a central apartment a few minutes walk from the palace that was built as a residence for Roman emperor Diocletian in third century AD. At that time, I had minimal knowledge about the building, as well as the city’s modern architecture.
When I returned in 2013, I stayed for a month in a high rise in the Pujanke quarter. Living there changed my view of the city. That was when I discovered Split 3 – an abstract, concrete composition of buildings that sit somewhere between sculptures and houses.
The complex was built in 1969 as a reaction to the mono-functional design seen in Zagreb and other cities in Yugoslavia. At the time, the district’s construction was a hot topic in the architecture scene – revitalising the city’s street, squares, and approach to urban planning.
In Split 3, pedestrian streets are oriented east to west, and the buildings on the north side of are taller than those on the south side. This kind of design makes people free to the see both sides of the street, with many settlements located on a hill on the city’s south side. Cars are parked on the north side, behind the taller complexes. Small cubes, made for birds to nest on, lie on the buildings’ facades. Even the surrounding streets, designed by architect Dinko Kovačić, are known for their abstract and sculptural form.
The district’s modernist architecture is mixed with an authentic Mediterranean flavour, which gives you a feel of a traditional Dalmatian street.
More of Vedran Kolac’s work can be seen on his official website and Instagram.
Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.
You might like
The lasting community legacy of a legendary Californian boxing gym
Moretón — Since opening in the ’80s, the Coachella Valley Boxing Club has trained multiple world champions, while providing a vital hub for local youth. In his new photobook, Darren Vargas documents its tight-knit, Chicano-led community, while also weaving a deeply personal story.
Inside the grunge golden age with Hole’s former bassist
My ’90s Rock Photographs — Melissa Auf der Maur’s new photobook is a sprawling visual memoir of her time at the heart of the US scene, from Tinker to The Smashing Pumpkins.
Introducing ‘The Chaos Isles’, a new photozine by Huck and Yushy
Normal Island — From unlicensed raves to the solstice at Stonehenge, furries to giant vegetable growers, Yushy is one of the UK’s best lensmen of its wild side. ‘The Chaos Isles’ will be sent out exclusively to Club Huck+ members.
Join Club Huck+ to get the most from Huck
Dispatches from the sharp edge of culture — Members get our print magazine, special photozines, The Huck Long Read newsletter, discounts from our friends and partners, digital versions of back issues and priority access to events.
Signs of solidarity as London marks three years of genocide in Palestine
Never forget — 250,000 people gathered on Saturday as Israeli attacks have continued in Gaza and the West Bank. Daisy Schofield photographed the diverse people and placards in attendance.
Landmark new exhibition is celebrating 50 years of female punk
God Save the Queens — The Museum of Youth Culture is bringing together rare photography, archive material and a one-night-only supergroup featuring members of X-Ray Spex, The Slits and The Raincoats.
