A trek through the mountains of North Korea

The Travel Diary — Writer and photographer Kate Eshelby explores the rural depths of the hermit kingdom, travelling through its jungles, beaches, and giant granite peaks.

“Stairway to Heaven” was the song that entered my head as I clung to a 100m near-vertical metal ladder. Screwed onto a precipitous cliff, it led to peaks that shot skywards and ridges with jagged pinnacles. Below were other don’t-look-down ladders that I’d already conquered, which at that point looked like mini toys.

I was in North Korea, possibly the world’s most isolated state, travelling deep into this mountainous peninsula to climb its peaks with the adventure company Secret Compass. The company, co-founded by ex-army officer Levison Wood, started leading trips here last year – and despite the looming threat of nuclear war, it hopes to run another next May.

It’s strictly forbidden to go anywhere alone, so our two local guides, Yong Un and Yong Chol, chaperoned our group everywhere. We reached the mountains by bus after two days exploring Pyongyang, the capital with its wide, eerily quiet skyscraper-lined boulevards and gigantic pictures of the much-revered, former supreme leaders, Kim Jong-il and Kim II-Sung. I felt like Alice having fallen down the rabbit hole.

We were given a taster of rural life from the car window as we drove between the ranges. Pretty houses with eaves curled up in smiles sat among paddies and orchards. It was rice-transplanting time so men and women pulled nets full of lime green seedlings while oxen ploughed the land. Red flags fluttered in front of these co-operative farms. “Red is the colour of revolution so they invigorate our people while working,” Yong Un explained.

Bicycles streamed by with men dressed only in black or brown mass-produced suits; the roads were empty of cars. Everyone was sporting red compulsory badges – flaunting images of the leaders. “We wear them on the left of our chest so they are close to our heart,” Yong Un said. Soldiers wearing towering caps popped up everywhere (North Korea has one of the world’s largest armies).

70 per cent of North Korea’s land is mountainous so before long mountains were striding down into the vivid paddies. The ladders I was scaling mount the sheerest sections of 1160m Sejong Peak in the Outer Kumgang Mountains (UN-recognised as a biosphere reserve). Kumgang means ‘diamond mountain’ because it’s a huge range of 12,000 granite peaks, which twinkle in the sunlight.

Zoomorphic shaped rocks surrounded by legends loomed over us as we scrambled up through steep jungle with hidden Buddhist temples. Enormous pools the colour of Foxes Glacier Mints threaded through the rocks and waterfalls tumbled down. Once at the top, it felt like the roof of the world, with mountains cloaked in trees riding out to the horizon.

We slept at the Kumgangsan, a grand hotel where balconied bedrooms had mountain views and chandeliers the size of elephants hung in the dining rooms. All the hotels we stayed in were opulent, with karaoke bars, ice skating rinks and revolving restaurants, despite always being near deserted.

Next, we took the coastal road north to Mount Myohyang passing vanilla-white sandy beaches and clear turquoise seas full of rocky islets. On finally reaching the 1909m Piro Peak – the country’s highest – we strung up hammocks and spent the night there. Mount Taehwa, our final mountain, is a full-blown ski resort with 10 runs – although there was no snow when we were there.

The last day of our trip was spent back on flat ground visiting the DMZ, the demilitarised zone, which separates North and South Korea; yet – despite the name – it’s actually one of the world’s most militarised borders.

“Our country was split asunder by hostile outside forces,” Yong Chol said. “We want reunification.” I arrived in North Korea with a near-blank page because so little is known about this hermetic state, but as with a lot of what I saw and heard these words surprised me. I left thoughtful, questioning much, yet wiser, and with the hope that their wish is granted.

Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.


Ad

Latest on Huck

Focus on humanising people. Text over a bright green background with a faint image of a person's face.
Activism

Plestia Alaqad: “Journalists should focus on humanising people”

Huck’s April interview — Having become one of the most crucial and followed voices from inside Gaza in the aftermath of October 7, the award-winning author and journalist is releasing a new memoir, ‘The Eyes of Gaza’, collating diary entries made over the past 18 months. We caught up with her to hear more about it.

Written by: Isaac Muk

Vans

The instrument makers taking DIY music to a whole new level

What does it take to construct a modular synth? How do you turn a block of wood into a double bass? Here, four craftspeople explain why they chose to rip up the rulebooks and build their own music-making machines.

Written by: Daniel Dylan Wray

Energetic music performance on stage with colourful lighting, smoke and audience.
Culture

Southbank Centre reveals new series dedicated to East and Southeast Asian arts

ESEA Encounters — Taking place between 17-20 July, there will be a live concert from YMO’s Haruomi Hosono, as well as discussions around Asian literature, stage productions, and a pop-up Japanese Yokimono summer market.

Written by: Zahra Onsori

Two people in colourful costume against a vibrant pink background.
Culture

In 1971, Pink Narcissus redefined queer eroticism

Camp classic — A new restoration of James Bidgood’s cult film is showing in US theatres this spring. We revisit its boundary pushing aesthetics, as well as its enduring legacy.

Written by: Miss Rosen

Crowd gathered around outdoor fire on night, silhouetted figures, flaming objects visible.
Music

As amapiano goes global, where does it leave its roots?

Rainbow grooves — Over the past decade, the house music subgenre has exploded into a worldwide phenomenon. Jak Hutchcraft went to its birthplace of Mamelodi, South Africa, to explore its still-thriving local scene.

Written by: Jak Hutchcraft

Crowd of silhouetted people at a nighttime event with colourful lighting and a bright spotlight on stage.
Music

Clubbing is good for your health, according to neuroscientists

We Become One — A new documentary explores the positive effects that dance music and shared musical experiences can have on the human brain.

Written by: Zahra Onsori

Signup to our newsletter

Sign up to stay informed from the cutting edge of sport, music and counterculture, with personal takes on the state of media and pop culture in your inbox every month from Emma Garland, former Digital Editor of Huck, exclusive interviews, recommendations and more.

Please wait...

Accessibility Settings

Text

Applies the Open Dyslexic font, designed to improve readability for individuals with dyslexia.

Applies a more readable font throughout the website, improving readability.

Underlines links throughout the website, making them easier to distinguish.

Adjusts the font size for improved readability.

Visuals

Reduces animations and disables autoplaying videos across the website, reducing distractions and improving focus.

Reduces the colour saturation throughout the website to create a more soothing visual experience.

Increases the contrast of elements on the website, making text and interface elements easier to distinguish.