A history of female gazes in African portraiture
- Text by Miss Rosen
- Photography by Ryerson Image Centre
As European imperialists set forth to colonise the globe, they took everything they could – including images of indigenous peoples forced to pose for photographs against their will. They made, sold, and distributed images, often objectifying and fetishising the subjects. This is where our story begins.
A new exhibition, The Way She Looks: A History of Female Gazes in African Portraiture, features more than 100 works drawn from The Walther Collection to trace the history of female agency in photographic form. Guest curated by Sandrine Collard, the show features works by Malick Sidibé, Seydou Keïta, David Goldblatt, J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere, Yto Barrada, Zanele Muholi, and Lebohang Kganye, exploring the role of women as both subject and photographer.
“When photography was invented, Europeans would travel, settle in colonies, open studios, and photograph the communities around them – most of the time without their consent,” says Gaelle Morel, Ryerson Image Centre Exhibitions Curator. “You had that forced gaze on people, and women in particular. This is a very specific way of photographing [by European men].”
The Way She Looks showcases a selection of images where the sitters display acts of resistance, asserting their power in small but telling ways. “You have some traces they were in charge of their representation even though they did not choose to be represented,” Morel says. “The way you dress, clench your jaw, move your head, look, pose with your sister or mother – these are signs they had a little bit of agency.”

Alfred Martin Duggan- Cronin, Bakgatla, South Africa, early to mid 20th century. Courtesy of The Walther Collection, Stevenson, Cape Town and Johannesburg, and The McGregor Museum, Kimberley

A. C. Gomes & Sons, Natives [sic] Hair Dressing, Zanzibar, Tanzania, late 19th century. Courtesy of The Walther Collection and Stevenson, Cape Town and Johannesburg
“Women have the power to say, ‘This is how I want to be photographed,’” Morel says, They styled themselves for the shoot, appearing with friends and family, or even alone, adopting postures, gestures, and expressions to communicate their identity to the world.
As the exhibition makes its way into the 21st century, it becomes much more inclusive with the addition of women photographers and non-gender conforming subjects. By centring queer and gender identities in a visual conversation about women’s perspectives, the exhibition allows the conversation to expand and grow.
“Everyone deserves to be represented in a dignified way. It hasn’t always been the case and it’s still not always the case,” Morel says. “The definition of gender can be stretched. It doesn’t matter how you were born, what matters is how you want to be perceived and identified… and how these communities can live and survive. You are pushing the conversation further when you open that door.”

David Goldblatt, A Farmer’s Son with his Nursemaid, Heimweeberg, Nietverdiend, Western Transvaal, from the series Some Afrikaners Photographed, 1964. Courtesy of Goodman Gallery, Johannesburg

J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere, Untitled (Suku Banana Onididi), from the series Hairstyles, 1974 (printed 2009). Courtesy of The Walther Collection and Galerie Magnin-A, Paris

S. J. Moodley, [Two women wearing Western attire], 1981. Courtesy of The Walther Collection

Sue Williamson, Miriam Makeba, from the series A Few South Africans, 1987. Courtesy of the artist and Goodman Gallery, Johannesburg

Nontsikelelo “Lolo” Veleko, Nonkululeko, from the series Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder, 2003. Courtesy of the artist and Goodman Gallery, Johannesburg

Zanele Muholi, Miss D’Vine II, from the series Miss D’vine, 2007. Courtesy of the artist and Stevenson, Cape Town and Johannesburg

abelo Mlangeni, Woman and City, from the series Big City, 2012. Courtesy of the artist and The Walther Collection

Jodi Bieber, Babalwa, from the series Real Beauty, 2008. Courtesy of the artist and Goodman Gallery, Johannesburg
The Way She Looks: A History of Female Gazes in African Portraiture is on view at the Ryerson Image Centre in Toronto, Canada, until December 8, 2019.
Follow Miss Rosen on Twitter.
Enjoyed this article? Like Huck on Facebook or follow us on Twitter.
You might like
“Magazines are cultural artefacts”: magCulture’s Jeremy Leslie on the enduring importance of print
We love magazines — Despite the ever creeping digitalisation of the world and culture, physical objects are taking on different, yet vital, roles in culture today. Ella Glossop chats to one of London’s biggest proponents of the art about why we need to support independent publications.
Written by: Ella Glossop
The anti-tourism guides revealing Lisbon’s true, radical heart
We Hate Tourism Tours — The Portuguese capital sees millions of people visit a year, against a backdrop of political turbulence and a housing crisis fuelled by short term holiday lets. Jack Burke meets the crew subverting their city’s perception, while bringing lesser seen stories and monuments to light.
Written by: Jack Burke
Defiance and pride in Chicano Camera Culture
A Photographic History — A new major exhibition surveys Mexican American photography over six decades, platforming Chicano artists at a Chicano museum for the first time.
Written by: Miss Rosen
The art of paying attention: How Austria’s Alps reward slowing down
Lebensgefühl — With a growing movement of art and music rooted in the area’s mountains, trees and waterfalls, the region is showcasing the importance of the human relationship to nature.
Written by: Sophie Lou Wilson
Grainy, yearning memories of Europe’s ’90s free rave heyday
Never Alone — A new photobook from Cheyenne Clementi and Valentina Morandi presents pictures they made over seven years while touring the continent as part of the Tekno Mobil Squad soundsystem crew. It archives parties, people and a lifestyle largely consigned to the past.
Written by: Isaac Muk
Queer resistance & sun-soaked solidarity at the world’s largest trans pride march
Our Future, Our Fight — Over the weekend, over 150,000 people marched at the London Trans+ Pride, with the parade ending at Trafalgar Square for the first time in history.
Written by: Ella Glossop